Types Of Fabric
Understanding the PLY – Single Ply vs two/double ply
To make a single thread, yarns are twisted together. The number of yarns twisted together to make a single thread is called PLY. Typically, Shirt fabrics or shirting fabrics can either be one ply or two ply, also known as double ply.
At Suadre, we have both one ply and two ply fabrics available with us. Two ply fabrics are generally superior than one ply fabrics as they offer a smooth- crisp feel and are more luxurious to wear. On the other hand, it doesn’t mean that one ply fabrics does not have luxurious feel – higher count single/one ply fabrics can be equally sought after given the fabric has compact construction.
The 2 in 100/2’s or 1 in 80/1 refer to the ply of the fabric.
Understanding the Fabric Count
The size of the yarn refers to the COUNT of the fabric. As a general rule – the higher the thread count; the more luxurious (and mostly expensive) fabric is expected to be.
At Suadre – Your Personalized Style Studio, we have a wide variety of thread counts available in fabrics. However, thread count is not everything i.e. higher thread count fabrics have a tendency to get more wrinkled because they are relatively finer. The compactness and density of fabric plays a big role in determining the overall quality of fabric. Therefore, weaves of the fabric also play an important part in selection of the fabric.
Suadre provides the different types of weaves. Read more about the weaves here.
Understanding the fabric Composition
Fabric composition depends upon the blend of the fabric. It can be 100% cotton and can also be blended with Linen, Lycra, Polyester & Viscose. The most common blend after 100% cotton is the blend of cotton and linen.
Su-Pima, Pima, Egyptian & Giza Cotton shirting fabrics are the premier choice of shirting fabrics and they are known for its long staple and superior quality.
100% Linen fabrics are strong, durable and mostly used in warm weather because of the light weight.
Poly blend fabrics are thicker with wrinkle resistant properties. Most suitable in the winter weather.
Types of Weave
The foundation of sharp dressing is knowing your fabric inside out, knowing what works for your taste and shape. We offer the best fabrics with the absolute perfect weaves to give you world class quality. The weaves we offer are Twill, Herringbone, Plain weave and complex weaves. We don’t really expect for you to know everything overnight but we do want you to know enough to know what you want. Below is a short description of all the fabrics we offer and what you should know about them. Say hi to your new friends.
Poplin is tightly woven fabric that has a simple over under weave called the 1/1 weave plus a lustre that makes it quite dressy. Poplin can sometimes be transparent because of it being thinner and lightweight. Shirts made from this material are easy to iron and do not wrinkle easily.
Strictly speaking, twill is a weave and not a fabric type although it has become a household name. Twill weaves are easily recognizable because they run in diagonal lines. Because of the diagonal texture twill, it will drape more easily. Twill won’t give you the same “crisp” look that freshly pressed broadcloth can, but it’s relatively easy to iron and resistant to wrinkles since it’s a relatively tight and compact weave.
You may recognize the fabric if we say “poplin”. Yup, the most commonly used fabric for shirts. Strictly speaking poplin is not the same as broadcloth but the two are so similar that we decided not to distinguish. Broadcloth is a tight weave with a simple plain weave and very little shine. Hence it’s extended usage in work shirts and formals. If you want to just blend in or are looking for very little texture on your fabric, broadcloth is the way to go. It’s a little transparent when bought in white and can be difficult to iron if you’re in a hurry.
Basically broadcloth but with a distinct colouring. The weft (horizontal) is usually white while the weft yarn (vertical yarns) are coloured. So it gives the impression of being a solid colour from far away but showcases more texture upon closer inspection.
The other most popular fabric for shirting. Linen fabrics are extremely breathable and made to be worn in summer. Linen is not cotton, despite your belief. Linen is made from the flax plant and has a dry feeling to it unlike cotton.
Despite the formality of its name, oxford cloth is not considered fabric for formal wear. It has a relatively less compact weave with thicker yarns and an asymmetrical basket weave. It is the least dressy of all fabrics. It’s used for polo t-shirts and totally knows how to carry off the wrinkled look. So if you’ve got everything down and are looking for more of a risk, choose the oxford.
This fabric is much like the oxford cloth but is still allowed to be formal but not more than say linen or broadcloth. The fabric has a tighter weave and a finer yarn. It’s less translucent and has a more durable quality.
Royal indeed. Don’t mistake it to be of the same family as the oxford cloth. Although they share a name, the royal oxford is what you would call a pretty fabric. It has a compact weave with a distinctive weave, better than the broadcloth. It has a slight shine and texture. Opt for this fabric for a more dressy shirt rather than daily formal wear.
Herringbone weave kind of resembles the twill mirrored, like the end tip of an arrow. It has much more texture than the linen or any other fabric but is still considered appropriate for both formal and occasion shirts.
Dobby fabrics usually have complex weaves and are extremely varied. They can either be like broadcloth in terms of weight and yarn or thick like twill. Dobby woven fabrics generally tend to have in-woven geometric patterns and extra texture. Although not necessary, most dobby fabrics use satin for an added effect.
Almost like the broadcloth, the chambray differs in weight, composition and thickness. It has a construction similar to broadcloth and is made for more relaxed workwear appeal. Chambray has a plain weave in which the warp yarns are coloured and the weft yarns are often white. The fabric has little to no texture except in terms of colour wherein it may look solid from afar but the difference in yarns can be noticed upon closer inspection.
Denim differs from Chambray in only two aspects, i.e. the weave in denim is twill and that the yarns used for weaving can be thicker, giving it it’s distinct hand and look. Denim fabric also has a white weft and a coloured (usually blue or indigo) warp. Denim fabrics differ in thickness, texture and look depending on the type of twill weave used.
Melange fabric is kind of like the watercolours of fabrics. It can be constructed in many different ways but the defining feature of melange fabric is that it usually consists of two or more colours in both the warp and weft. This can be done by combining two pre-dyed fabrics, by combining two fabrics and then dyeing them or by going at the fibre level and twisting two differently coloured fibres.
Not to be confused with plaid, flannel is a soft, warm and fuzzy kind of fabric constructed with worsted yarn or carded wool. It is currently also made of wool, synthetic fibres or cotton. Flannel is an extremely soft fabric with a delicate yet fuzzy hand. Plaid is a popular criss-cross design made on flannel fabric.
Satin fabric differs from satin weave by a few conditions. Strictly speaking, satin fabric must be constructed using the satin weave and also by using silk, nylon or polyester. The fabric is usually extremely shiny, especially if made from silk. Choose this fabric for a dressy occasion for it adds copious amounts of texture to the look.
Description of Patterns
Descriptions for pattern or weave design will be as follows after the weave description:
The fabric has a different print for the more daring, more flamboyant and the absolute confident. Choose this fabric for dressy occasions and pair with light, plain trouser fabrics for a balanced look.
The fabric also comes with an additional finishing to give it an extra shine. To be chosen for occasion wear, satin finish fabrics tend to draw attention to themselves and become the star of the outfit.
The fabric boasts of a checked pattern to compliment the garment. Checks and stripes tend to add panache to the garment without adding flair or shine or texture. It pleases the eye adding a hint of design.
The fabric comes with the most different weave of all. It has different designs that are weaved within at the time of manufacturing the fabric. It is distinct from other patterns as it is woven into it rather than printed on it like the other print fabrics. Mostly, jacquard appears in different textures or in raised patterns as compared to the rest of the material.